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chipotle ([personal profile] chipotle) wrote2005-07-19 08:50 pm
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The martini

Yes, it’s cocktail time again!

The martini has changed a lot from its inception; today a “classic” martini usually refers to vodka with a few drops of vermouth in it. The original martini, though, used gin, not vodka, and considerably more vermouth—usually a ratio of 5 or 6 parts gin to one part vermouth. Also, while now dry refers to the quantity of vermouth, it used to refer to the type of vermouth used—dry white or sweet red.

I can understand why the switch from gin to vodka happened over the years—gin is a pretty astringent spirit, and as it become fashionable to add ever-decreasing amounts of vermouth to one’s martini (Winston Churchill once apparently said that just looking at a bottle of vermouth was sufficient), the gin flavor would become overpowering. The problem, of course, is that vodka’s flavor ranges from “subtle” to “absent,” depending on what brand you have. My solution? Use both gin and vodka.

So, here are two martinis I made on successive nights, which try to recapture a bit of the original martini spirit while still being modernized. Note that the quality of the alcohol is particularly important in a martini, because there’s nothing for it to hide behind. For what it’s worth, I used:

  • Rain vodka
  • Bombay (or Bombay Sapphire) gin
  • Cinzano vermouth

Incidentally, I use a Mason jar as a cocktail shaker, and it works beautifully. Both of these recipes—particularly the second one—work best with vodka that you’ve stored in the freezer. (It won’t freeze.)

Golden Martini

¼ oz. red sweet vermouth
¼ oz. dry vermouth
1½ oz. vodka
1½ oz. gin

Fill a cocktail shaker halfway up with ice. Add all the alcohol, stir, and strain into a martini glass. The drink will be a very pale golden color. Garnish with a maraschino cherry. (Really.) This is what’s called a “perfect” martini, in that it’s equal parts sweet and dry vermouth; I matched that with equal parts vodka and gin, although I think it would probably work well with other proportions.

Dirty Martini

¼ oz. dry vermouth
¾ oz. gin
2 oz. vodka

Fill a cocktail shaker halfway up with cracked/crushed ice. Add all the alcohol. Take a blue-cheese stuffed olive (you can find these in better grocery stores or liquor stores, or make them yourself if you’re more motivated than I), skewer it on a toothpick, and place it in a martini glass. Add a few drops of the juice from the olive jar. Shake the cocktail shaker very vigorously, then strain into the glass—the martini will be clear, but should look a little “thick” because of the ice.

—-

Of these two recipes, my favorite is the dirty martini, which honestly surprised me: despite knowing the olive is a time-honored martini garnish, the idea of using it in a drink always intrinsically struck me as absurd. But, the saltiness of the olive juice adds a nice counterpart to the sweetness of the gin-vermouth combination (and Rain vodka is naturally a bit sweet, I think), making it very drinkable indeed.

I draw the line at “cocktail onions,” though.

The Madison?

[identity profile] ben-mouse.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 04:11 am (UTC)(link)
I do seem to remember that there was a martini called a "Madison" which included one of those little bar onions. Have you seen one of these?

Re: The Madison?

[identity profile] chipotle.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 07:41 am (UTC)(link)
I think it's a "Gibson." I haven't had one, although it's traditionally made with gin and it's not dry at all. And I just don't know about the idea of the onion.

Greetings!

[identity profile] ben-mouse.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 09:36 pm (UTC)(link)
Submit. Submit to the onion.

[identity profile] prickvixen.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 04:26 am (UTC)(link)
I think this is why I prefer Stolichnaya, because it's got 'character,' as they say, which is another way of saying it tastes like something, and also why I never got into Grey Goose, even though it was a decent enough vodka. I do prefer the vodka martini, but when I do the standard martini I also use Bombay Sapphire... it's pretty mild compared to most gin, I'm told.

The way I've been making a standard martini is to chill the glass in the freezer, then add a little white vermouth and turn the glass until it coats the inside, then pour out the excess. Then shake up the gin with ice cubes, pour in, garnish with olive. The olive does make a difference, as you've learned. (You don't have to eat them. I think it was Jackie Gleason who said that the olives are used as markers, to keep track of how many drinks you've had.) I really should keep the vodka in the freezer, but I just haven't gotten in the habit... and it doesn't freeze, but it does get a little syrupy.

I may have to try your vodka-gin variant; I still haven't gotten around to putting that margarita together.

[identity profile] chipotle.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 07:49 am (UTC)(link)
Stoli is the vodka my mother makes martinis with, although she likes them very dry (5 drops of vermouth, exactly, apparently). I came across another martini recipe that had just a coating of vermouth, although it was a humorously elaborate preparation. (It's at http://coudal.com/perfect.php -- and is more work than I'm probably going to put in, although it is what made me think of the olives with blue cheese.)

[identity profile] prickvixen.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 08:10 am (UTC)(link)
This recipe kind of offends me, mostly because of the 'there's one right way to do this,' Angry Dad tone of it. God save me from men who think they know every fucking thing, and God save me from designers who can't stop being slick, who would barf up slick if you garroted them. (never mind that this method is going to water it down by having the vodka sit in ice for several minutes while you're messing around with olives.) I should start a design agency staffed with apathetic, greasy slobs, who help undiscriminating clients to stand out by doing inaesthetic, clumsy design for unremarkable products. Where was I?

I want to try a martini with more vermouth sometime, with more of that classic 6:1 proportion. Unfortunately I'm out of olives. We should drink sometime... I'm only like eight or nine miles away. Maybe meet at Original Joe's and get loaded and eat Italian food... the light rail practically stops outside their door.

[identity profile] chipotle.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 03:00 pm (UTC)(link)
I think you're taking Coudal's tone too much at face value. From what I gather, he was told by friends he was obsessive about martinis, and decided to write up the "right way" to make a martini in as batshit obsessive about it as he could. Most of the site has a pretty relaxed tone. (Although it's worth noting that some martini recipes I saw did suggest that the melting ice is supposed to be part of the mix.)

Where are you actually at? I was thinking San Mateo or something. I do pass by Original Joe's on light rail but haven't eaten there yet.

[identity profile] prickvixen.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 10:32 pm (UTC)(link)
Maybe, but I see this kind of thing all over the place... people writing like they're the Playboy Advisor, and coming across like someone's alcoholic dad. And my characterization of their ethos as 'we're too cool to take a dump' comes from examining the whole site; this too is rife in the design world.

I'm in Santa Clara, just off of El Camino. I live near a tattoo parlor!

[identity profile] duncanroo.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 04:35 am (UTC)(link)
Make mine dirty.

-- Duncan

[identity profile] doodlesthegreat.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 01:42 pm (UTC)(link)
The swap from gin to vodka was as much a matter of tales as it was taste. As any dedicated James Bond fan can tell you. =};-3

[identity profile] chipotle.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 03:06 pm (UTC)(link)
Actually, James Bond made his martini in a similar fashion to mine -- it had both gin and vodka, and much more gin. Ian Fleming had Bond tell a bartender how to make it in the first book:

3 oz. Gordon's gin
1 oz. vodka
½ oz. Kina Lillet

Shake it up with ice, strain, garnish with a lemon peel. Lillet is a similar "wine with herbs" deal to vermouth. (I think it's a bit sweeter than dry vermouth, and slightly golden in color rather than clear.)

(And for the record, while he did ask for it shaken, he didn't say, "shaken, not stirred.")

[identity profile] prickvixen.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 10:34 pm (UTC)(link)
SNAP PWNED

[identity profile] varjohaltia.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 03:23 pm (UTC)(link)
Interesting. There's a night club in Ybor, the Czar, run by the same folks that run the Castle, that has a martini bar and surprisingly pretty decent martinis, including the traditional apple and the black forest martini. This got me and to a larger extent Vince fired up, so we have the glasses, and shaker, and all that stuff. But damn is it difficult to make a good one!

As to Vodka, Danzka is my absolute favorite; not for martinis, but in general. It's smooth enough to hardly be labeled vodka. You can drink it straight.

And now back to my previously scheduled Laphroig - Lagavulin menu.

[identity profile] prickvixen.livejournal.com 2005-07-21 12:19 am (UTC)(link)
Man, Lagavulin used to be cheap, until it got all talked up by everyone and now it's like twice as much as it was four years ago. That and the fact that the dollar is near-worthless...

[identity profile] varjohaltia.livejournal.com 2005-07-21 12:29 am (UTC)(link)
I never remember it having been cheap, but admittedly that might just have been the Scandinavian liquor prices. Nowadays, though, it's completely insane. Anything but the youngest of bottles is knocking on the $100 mark. Which is a pity, because I rather like it. Lagavulin 16 is $82 + tax, and even Laphroig 15 is $69.99!

[identity profile] prickvixen.livejournal.com 2005-07-21 01:07 am (UTC)(link)
Yeah, see what I mean? The 16 was around $40 when I bought some in 2001. I'm not into whiskey; I bought it precisely because it was supposed to be very good but strangely underpriced, and I didn't have a good bottle around. Now that everyone knows about it, that game is up. I'd better make it last.

[identity profile] varjohaltia.livejournal.com 2005-07-21 01:13 am (UTC)(link)
Yeah... Well, it's not whiskey, it's single malt, to be really nitpicky, and you're not allowed to have it on the rocks or a battalion of Scotsmen will come and take it away. Lagavulin has a very distinctive taste, though, which I wouldn't generally say to be particularly representative of scotches. Then again, that's why I like it!
ext_15118: Me, on a car, in the middle of nowhere Eastern Colorado (Default)

[identity profile] typographer.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 04:38 pm (UTC)(link)
*sigh*

1 part dry vermouth
7 parts gin
poured over ice into shaker. Shake. Pour into glass. Garnish with three green olives on a toothpick.

Anything else is simply heresy. Heresy!

(I'll go back to my rocking chair, now)

[identity profile] prickvixen.livejournal.com 2005-07-20 10:38 pm (UTC)(link)
Okay, Dad... try not to pass out in front of the TV again. :)